Travel · 4 min read
Where I Eat in Italy
Six tables between Milan and Puglia. None of them have a view, all of them have a reason.
I have never once chosen a restaurant in Italy for the view. These are the rooms I think about when I am not there.
Milan
The risotto place
Still the first place I go when I land: familiar, unfussy, and always exactly right.
Puglia
A courtyard with six tables
You eat what they cooked. Last September that meant raw prawns, orecchiette, and a peach in wine.
The bakery at seven
Focaccia straight from the tray, eaten standing on the pavement. My daughter’s favourite thing about Italy.


